Riesling
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Ripe grapes of Riesling
Riesling is a white grape variety and
varietal appellation of wines grown
historically in Alsace
(France), Austria, Germany (see German wine),
and northern Italy.
It is a very old grape, first documented in 1435, in which year the
storage inventory of the Counts of Katzenelnbogen
(a small principality on the Rhine) lists the purchase of six barrels of riesslingen
from a Rüsselsheim vintner. The modern word Riesling was first documented
in 1552 when it was mentioned in Hieronymous Bock's
Latin herbal. [1]
The
most expensive wines made from Riesling are late
harvest dessert wines, produced by letting the grapes hang on
the vines well past normal picking time. Through evaporation caused by the
fungus Botrytis cinerea ("noble rot") or by
freezing, as in the case of ice wine (in German, Eiswein), water
is removed and the resulting wine offers richer layers on the palate. These
concentrated wines have more sugar (in extreme cases hundreds of grams per liter), more
acid (to give balance to all the sugar), more flavors, etc. Due to its concentration,
late-harvest Rieslings are among the longest-lived of all wines. The beneficial
use of "noble rot" was discovered in the late 18th century at Schloss Johannisberg.
Permission from the Abbey of Fulda, which owned the vineyard, to start picking the grapes
arrived too late and the grapes had begun to rot, yet it turned out that the
wine made from them was still of excellent quality.
Riesling
is considered one of the grape varieties that best expresses the terroir of the
place where it is grown. [2] It is
particularly well suited for slate and sandy clay soil.
Riesling
wines from Germany cover a vast array of tastes from sweet to off-dry halbtrocken
to dry trocken. Rieslings from Alsace and Austria tend to be dry (sec)
or just off-dry (demi-sec). Late Harvest Rieslings can ripen to become very
sweet dessert wines such as beerenauslese (BA), and trockenbeerenauslese (TBA). Other names for true
Riesling - though these are only used in the United
States - are Johannisberg Riesling (named after the famed Schloss
Johannisberg), White Riesling and Rhine Riesling. In Italy it is sometimes
labeled Riesling Renano. Many grapes that incorporate the name Riesling are not
true Riesling. For example, Grey Riesling is actually Trousseau
Gris, an unrelated grape. Schwarzriesling ("black
Riesling") is also known as Pinot
meunier, a grape also used in the production of Champagne. In South
Africa, the French grape Crouchen is known as Cape Riesling in contrast to "real
Riesling" which is labeled in South Africa as Weisser
(or White) Riesling.
Riesling
is also grown in the other areas, notably Australia
where the grape produces a distinctive crisp, dry and fruity wine. The Clare
Valley and Eden Valley are both notable for the
quality of their Australian Riesling. In North
America, Riesling is usually grown in cooler regions, such as northern California,
New York, Michigan and Ontario, and
shows promise in the Pacific Northwest. It is also grown in cooler
regions of New Zealand and South Africa, and the quality is
improving significantly in the New World as more suitable sites are found,
better quality vines are planted, and the vines age. In South
America, Riesling is produced in Chile in a style
similar to that of New Zealand Rieslings.
Originating
in German soil [3] today Riesling is Germany’s leading grape variety, known
for its characteristic “transparency” in flavor and presentation, and for its
balance between fruit and mineral flavors. In Germany, Riesling normally ripens
between late September and late November, and late harvest Riesling can be
picked as late as January. Three common characteristics of German Riesling are
that they are rarely blended with other varietals, hardly ever exposed to
commercial yeast[4] and usually never exposed to oak flavor (despite some
vinter fermenting in "dormant" oak barrels". To this last item
there is an exception with some vinters in the wine regions of Pfalz and Baden experimenting
with new oak aging. The warmer temperatures in those regions produce heavier
wines with a higher alcohol content that can better contend with the new oak. [5]
While clearer in individual flavors when it is young, a German Riesling will
harmonize more as it ages, particularly around ten years of age.
In
Germany, sugar levels at time of harvest is an important consideration in the
wine's production with prädikat levels measuring the sweetness
of the wine. As equally important to winegrowers is the balance of acidity
between the green tasting malic acid and the more citrus tasting tartaric
acid. In cool years, some growers will wait till November to harvest in
hopes of having a higher level of ripness and subsequent tartaric acid. [6]
Before
technology in wineries could stablize temperatures, the low temperatures in
winter of the northern German regions would halt fermentation and leave the
resulting wines with natural sugars and a low alchohol content. According to
local tradition, in the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer region the wine would then be
bottled in tall, tapered, and green hock bottles. Similar bottles, although brown, are used for
Riesling produced in the Rhine region. [7]
In the
Late 19th century German horticulturalists devoted many efforts to develop new
Riesling hybrids that would create a more flexible, less tempermental grape that
could still retain some of the elegant characteristics of Riesling. The most
notable is the Müller-Thurgau developed in Geisenheim
in 1882, it is said to be a cross of Riesling and Silvaner though
this has come under doubt. Other Riesling/Silvaner crosses include the Pfalz regional
favorite Scheurebe
and Rieslaner. Kerner, a cross
between Riesling and the red wine grape Trollinger is
a high quality cross that has recently eclipsed Riesling in plantings. [8]
Riesling
is also the preferred grape in production of Sekt, German sparkling
wine.
Riesling
is on record as being planted in the Alsace region by 1477 when its quality was
praised by the Duke of Lorraine. [9] Today over a
fifth of Alsace's vineyards are covered with Riesling vines, mostly in the Haut-Rhin
district, with the wine produce here being very different from neighboring
German Riesling.[10] This is partly from difference in the soil with the
clay Alsatian soil being more dominately calcareous then the slate composition
of Rheingau. The other differences come in wine making styles, with the
Alsatian preferring more french-oriented methods that produce wines of higher
alcohol content (normally around 12%) and more roundness due to longer time
spent aging in the barrel. In contrast to German wine laws, Alsatian rieslings
can be chaptalized. [11]
In
contrast to other Alastian wines, Rieslings in this area are not meant to be
drunk young. Rieslings produce here tend to be mostly very dry with a cleansing
acidity. They are thick bodied wines that coat the palate. These wines age
exceptionally well with a quality vintage aging up to 20 years. This is
beneficial since the flavors in an Alsace wine will often open up after three
years, developing softer and fruitier flavors. [12] Rieslings
made in sweeter styles include the late harvest Vendange Tardive and the
botrytize Sélection de Grains Nobles.
In
addition to Muscat,
Gewurtztraminer
and Pinot
Gris, Riesling is one of the acceptable varieties whose planting is allowed
in Alsace's grand cru sites. [13]
In
1820 the first reference to Riesling in Australia came from William
Macarthur planting 20 acres of the grape near Penrith in New
South Wales. [citation needed]
Riesling was the most planted white grape in Australia till the early 1990s
when it fell out of style in favor of Chardonnay.
[14]
Riesling still flourishes in the Clare Valley, in particular the areas of Watervale and
around the Polish Hill River,
and the cooler Eden Valley where some sparkling Riesling is produced. The
warmer Australian climate produces thicker skinned grapes, sometimes seven
times the thickness of German grown grape. [15] The grapes ripening
in free drain soil composed of red soil over limestone and
shale, producing a
lean wine that as it matures produces toasty and lime flavor notes. It is
common for Australian Rieslings to be fermented at low temperatures in
stainless steel tanks with no oxidation of the wine and followed by earlier
bottling. [16]
Australian
Rieslings are noted for their oily texture and citrus fruit flavors in their
youth and a smooth balance of freshness and acid as they age. The botrytized
Rieslings have immense levels of flavor concentrations that have been favorably
compared to lemon marmalade. [17]
Riesling
was first planted in New Zealand in the 1970s and has flourished in the
relatively cool climate of the Marlborough
area and for late harvests in the Nelson region. In comparison to Australian
Riesling, New Zealand produces lighter and more delicate wines that range from
sweet to dry.
Riesling
is the second leading white grape varietal after the indigenous Grüner Veltliner. [citation needed]
Austrian Riesling is generally thick bodied, coating the palate and producing a
strong clarity of flavor coupled with a mouthwatering aroma. A particular
Austrian Riesling trademark is a long finish that includes hints of white
pepper. It flourishes in the cool climate and free-draining granite and mica soil of the Wachau region where
Austrian wine laws allow for irrigation. With levels normally around 13% it is
has a relatively high alcohol content for Riesling and is generally at its peak
after 5 years. [18] Austrian Riesling is not known for its sweetness and is
mostly dry with very little grapes affected by botrytis.
In the
late nineteenth century German immigrants brought with them Riesling vines,
named Johannisberg Riesling to qualify them as “legitimate” German Riesling.
New York, particularly in the Finger
Lakes region, was one of the earliest U.S. producers of Riesling. Plantings
started to appear in California by 1857 and followed in Washington State in
1871.[19]
New
York Riesling generally has a characteristic effervescent light body with a
similarly light, mellow flavor. The wine can be dynamic though rarely robust,
and ranges from dry to sweet. New York is also a notable producer of Riesling
based Ice Wine,
although a large majority of New York Ice Wine is made from Vidal Blanc
and Vignoles.
In
California, Riesling lags far behind in popularity to Chardonnay and is not as commonly
planted. A notable exception is the growing development of high quality Late
Harvest dessert wines-most successfully produced so far are in the Anderson and
Alexander Valleys, where the weather is more likely to encourage the needed botrytis to
develop. The Riesling that does come out of California tends to be softer,
fuller, and having more diverse flavors than a "typical" German
Riesling.
In the
Pacific Northwest there is a stark contrast in Riesling production, the grape
is currently on the rise in Washington State but on the decline in neighboring
Oregon. Riesling from this area ranges from dry to sweet, and has a crisp
lightness that bodes well for easy drinking. Often there will be an easily
detectable peach and mineral complex. Some Washington State winemakers, such as
Chateau Ste. Michelle, are adapting German
style Riesling production methods, and even partnering with well-known German
vintners like Dr. Ernest Loosen to
create specialty wines such as the Eroica Riesling.
In
Canada, Riesling is used almost exclusively for Ice Wine, particularly in Ontario where the
wine is noted for its breadth and complexity. [20]
In wine making,
the delicate nature of the Riesling grape requires special handling during
harvesting to avoid crushing or bruising the skin. Without this care, the
broken skins could leak tannin into the juice, giving a markedly coarse taste and
throwing off balance the Riesling’s range of flavors and aromas.
A wine
that is best at its “freshest” states, the grapes and juice may be chilled
often throughout the vinification process. Once, right after picking to
preserve the grapes' more delicate flavors. Second, after it has been processed
through a bladder press and
right before fermentation. During fermentation, the wine is cooled in
temperature controlled stainless steel fermentation tanks kept between 50-65F.
(Unlike red wines that normally ferment at 75-85F)
Unlike
Chardonnay,
most Riesling do not undergo malolactic fermentation. This helps
preserve the tart, acidic characteristic of the wine that gives Riesling its
“thirst-quenching” quality. (Producers of Sauvignon
Blanc and Pinot Grigio often avoid malolactic fermentation for
the same reason.} Riesling is often put through a process of cold stabilization, where the wine is quickly
chilled to just above the freezing point. The wine is kept at this temperature
until much of the tartaric acid has crystallized and precipatated out of the
wine. After this, the wine is normally filtered again to remove any remaining
yeast or impurities.
In
viticulture, the two main components in growing Riesling grapes are to keep it
"Long & Low" meaning that the ideal situation for Riesling is a
climate that allows for a long, slow ripening and proper pruning to keep the
yeild low and the flavor concentrated. [21]
With
food
Riesling
is a very versatile wine to have with food, because of its balance of sugar and
notable acidity. It can pair with white fish, or with pork, and it is one of
the few wines that can stand up to Thai and Chinese
cuisine. Riesling's typical aromas are of flowers, tropical fruits, and
mineral stone (such as slate or quartz), although, with time, the wine acquires
a petrol or kerosene note that may be immediately arresting to new drinkers of
Riesling while others may find it alluring. Stored well, Riesling can remain
drinkable for over a century. It is almost never oaked, which tends to lighten
its profile and increase its suitability with many foods. The sharp
acidity/sweetness in Rieslings can serve as a very good balance to foods that
are high in salt content. In Germany, Rieslings are sometimes cooked with
cabbage to help taper the smell.
Footnotes
- ^ Oz Clarke The Encyclopedia of
Grapes Websters International Publishers 2001, pg 192
- ^ Oz Clarke The Encyclopedia of
Grapes Websters International Publishers 2001, pg 194
- ^ Stuart Walton, Understanding,
Choosing and Enjoying Wine Hermes House 2006, pg. 71
- ^ The Wine Bible Karen MacNeil
page 516
- ^ Oz Clarke The Encyclopedia of
Grapes Websters International Publishers 2001, pg 195
- ^ Oz Clarke The Encyclopedia of
Grapes Websters International Publishers 2001, pg 197
- ^ Stuart Walton, Understanding, Choosing
and Enjoying Wine Hermes House 2006, pg. 70
- ^ Stuart Walton, Understanding,
Choosing and Enjoying Wine Hermes House 2006, pg. 181
- ^ Oz Clarke The Encyclopedia of
Grapes Websters International Publishers 2001, pg 193
- ^ Stuart Walton, Understanding,
Choosing and Enjoying Wine Hermes House 2006, pg. 74
- ^ Oz Clarke The Encyclopedia of
Grapes Websters International Publishers 2001, pg 198
- ^ Stuart Walton, Understanding,
Choosing and Enjoying Wine Hermes House 2006, pg. 74
- ^ Stuart Walton, Understanding,
Choosing and Enjoying Wine Hermes House 2006, pg. 121
- ^ Oz Clarke The Encyclopedia of
Grapes Websters International Publishers 2001, pg 198
- ^ Oz Clarke The Encyclopedia of
Grapes Websters International Publishers 2001, pg 195
- ^ Oz Clarke The Encyclopedia of
Grapes Websters International Publishers 2001, pg 199
- ^ Stuart Walton, Understanding, Choosing
and Enjoying Wine Hermes House 2006, pg. 75
- ^ Oz Clarke The Encyclopedia of
Grapes Websters International Publishers 2001, pg 199
- ^ Oz Clarke The Encyclopedia of
Grapes Websters International Publishers 2001, pg 199
- ^ Stuart Walton, Understanding,
Choosing and Enjoying Wine Hermes House 2006, pg. 75
- ^ Oz Clarke The EncyclPlantings
started to appear in California by 1857 and followedopedia of Grapes
Websters International Publishers 2001, pg 194